Course Title : Coastal Wave Dynamics

Code 10F462
Course Year Master and Doctor Course
Term 1st term
Class day & Period Fri 3rd
Location C1-173
Credits 2
Restriction No Restriction
Lecture Form(s) Lecture
Language English
Instructor Hitoshi Gotoh,Khayyer Abbas, Eiji Harada and Hiroyuki Ikari

Course Description

Wave motion, which is the main driving force in coastal zone, is explained focusing on wave transformation theory and computational fluid dynamics, and design for coastal structures of their engineering applications is illustrated. As for the computational fluid dynamics for waves, methodology of free-surface wave based on the Navier-Stokes equation, which has been significantly developed in recent years, is explained in detail.


Grading is based on student’s activities in lectures and written examination.

Course Goals

Goal of this course is a detailed understanding of fundamental of wave transformation theory and computational fluid dynamics related to wave motion, and is also acquiring a design concept for coastal structures as their engineering applications.

Course Topics

Theme Class number of times Description
Introduction 1 The purpose and constitution of the lecture the method of the scholastic evaluation are explained.
Conservation laws of fluid 4 Fundamentals of fluid mechanics, liner / non-liner wave theories and numerical mathematics are explained.
Modeling of surf zone dynamics 6 Several methodologies against free-surface wave including breaking waves (i.e. VOF, MPS, SPH) are illustrated. Especially advanced approaches of MPS and SPH are explained in detail.
Introduction of turbulence models 1 Reynolds averaging models and large eddy simulation are outlined.
Modeling of rock mound dynamics 2 Method for tracking of armor blocks under high waves using Distinct Element Method is described.
Achievement Confirmation 1 Comprehension check of course contents.


Computational Wave Dynamics by Hitoshi Gotoh, Akio Okayasu and Yasunori Watanabe 234pp, ISBN: 978-981-4449-70-0




Non. It is desiarable to have knowledge about hydraulics, fluid mechanics.

Independent Study Outside of Class

Review fundamental items of hydraulics or hydrodynamics.

Web Sites

Additional Information

If there are any questions, please send e-mail to the staff. This course will be offered in 2015.